Fashion / Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week A/W 2014 Highlights

Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week A/W 2014 Highlights

Fashion Apr 01, 2014

by Yasmin Spiegel

March 26-30th at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, South Asia’s biggest names in fashion gathered at the largest show of the year to stage their Autumn-Winter collections in an epic display of global awareness.

Even the more seasoned designers like Wharton business graduate-turned designer, Tarun Tahaliani, who opened fashion week, are using India’s ceaseless talent for recreating the drape to produce groundbreaking international designs.

Showstopper Shilpa Shetty at the Opening Show by Tarun Tahaliani

This time, he showcased the colour black highlighted by jewel tones. His tussar saris and billowing trousers cut out of warmer fabrics like cashmere, heavy jersey, and even velvet, to be accompanied by cashmere cover-ups reminded me of some mythical Persian winter fairytale, with the rare exception of showstopper Shilpa Shetty’s festive, gypsy Lehenga Choli.

Designer Payal Pratap took her “Winter Blossom” collection further east with a decidedly oriental vibe; note the models’ hair up in knots and the dresses cut more like Japanese kimonos.

Payal Pratap Collection

But Twinings (yes, the tea company) presenting Abraham & Thakore’s work in khakis and black silks went the other way around the world in a decidedly Colonial take on what I might call a 'safari en vogue'.

Abraham & Thakore’s Collection

Pretty exciting this time around, Hollywood’s beloved designer Amit Gupta returned after four years with a wide spectrum of colors and designs all geared towards red carpet fashion, and I can’t help but think that we’ll be seeing some fishtail skirts at the next award shows.

Amit Gupta Collection

Raakesh Agarvwal brought sexy back with his 'Punk Rock Chic' centre stage with black leather, gold beaded cocktail dresses and bustiers that might be more at home at a concert or cabaret.

Rakesh Agarwal Collection

Meanwhile Anita Dongre rocked a definite tribal funk vibe: her models strutted down the runway in flowing, ikat patterned maxi dresses, chunky jewelry and hair teased into afro-coifs. The techno-funk music added to the illusion that we had stepped back in time.

Anita Dongre's Collection

Also going transcontinental, I loved Pai Pauro’s ‘Scottish Glamrock Tudor’ line. Her saris were very traditional, but the mirrored and embroidered fabrics were reminiscent of medieval stained glass and I suppose it was only a matter of time before the Scottish tartan and the sari got together.

Pai Pauro's Collection

Fiama De Wills partnered with Pankaj & Nidhi to present dresses, shirts, pants, skirts and jackets with long trains (that I particularly liked) that definitely channeled ‘Spanish House of Cards’, and I don’t mean the Netflix series. It could have been the matador and flamenco dancer presenting or the matador fashion cape that tipped me off, but the very European cuts and curlicues also helped give it away, to glam effect. I wonder where I could pick up the card suite skirt for myself!

Pankaj & Nidhi's Collection

Fashion show staple Satya Paul presented a line of outfits and reversible saris in block tropical pastels and some printed with a hand holding a safety pin, others with dripping faucets, and some with marionettes. The collection, titled ‘Icarus’ evidently is supposed to hold symbolism of illusion, but the illusion of what, we’re still left wondering. My two cents- It’s about society’s false sense of security that our natural resources will hold out forever.

Satya Paul Collection

Rahul Mishra, the first Indian designer to ever win the highly coveted Woolmark Prize, also showed a modern line where the key word is “shoulders,” as in outfits with sexy, shoulder-to-mid-bicep sleeves. The cocktail dresses also highlighted wide lapels, and buttoned waists faintly reminiscent of the classic trench, if the classic trench happened to be black with white flowers, vice versa, and sheer. Maybe not so classic, but yet still so chic!

Rahul Mishra's Collection

Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s block colors, bold scrollwork embroidery and blousy overlays came together beautifully, just going to show that huge patterns are risky, but also that Ghosh is capable of beautiful execution.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh’s Collection

And of course, let’s not forget the special treat: a visit from legendary designer Emmanuel Ungaro, the legendary 70’s “prince of prints” who mingled with designers and fashion bloggers.

French designer Emmanuel Ungaro hangs out backstage with Sunil Sethi, President of the Fashion Design Council of India

It was a fantastic week, though maybe not perfect, with the Queen, Kangana Ranaut’s trip up in the finale, but it was really not such a big deal (according to her) and in light of the closing show: ‘elecTron’ by Namrata Joshipura, whose black and gold metallic line of gowns (straddling Art Deco and something futuristic) was heralded by a Rock & Roll electronic light show that made me wish David Bowie had been there too.

Kangana Ranuat showcasing Namrata Joshipura's Collection

As for my absolute favorite? I loved Nachiket Barve’s New Zealand Maori-inspired collection of gem stone hued velvets, silks and sheers. The “tattooing” on the models’ chins was a nice touch, but I loved the Maori tattoo-inspired scrollwork and the fern embroideries best. Have I said it enough? I am so glad that velvet is back in!

Nachiket Barve’s Collection

_{Featured Image: Namrata Joshipura

All Images courtesy of FDCI}

Yasmin Spiegel

Author

Yasmin Spiegel is a New York-based writer and information professional. She is passionate about books, textiles, good design, and expert craftsmanship. She reserves free time for her own creative work, ballroom dancing and hiking upstate. Future plans include fashion design and any excuse for worl...

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Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week A/W 2014 Highlights

by Yasmin Spiegel

March 26-30th at Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, South Asia’s biggest names in fashion gathered at the largest show of the year to stage their Autumn-Winter collections in an epic display of global awareness.

Yasmin Spiegel

COMMENTS

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