Sun-Savvy South Asians: The Ultimate Myth-Busting Guide To Sunscreen Products

Summer is all about fun in the sun… but it should also be your chance to integrate a year-round sunscreen habit into your daily routine so that you preserve the magnificence of your brown beauty for years to come.  Brown skin, like other shades, can develop age spots, discolouration and may even lead to skin cancer if it is exposed repeatedly to UVA (aging rays) and UVB (burning rays) without any protection.

In this blog, I review basic concepts about sun protection and provide some product suggestions so that you are empowered on the subject, and if you choose to consult a dermatologist and pharmacist you will have the requisite vocabulary to converse with confidence and to ask insightful questions.

WHY THE SUN IS NOT ALWAYS FRIENDLY

The sun emits invisible rays, UVA (ultraviolet A radiation) and UVB (ultraviolet B radiation), that travel across space, filter through the ozone and penetrate surfaces such as the skin. For the most part, as we are walking about our day, we do not feel the penetration but over time, the penetration becomes evident.  A common short-term event is when the skin turns red and starts to blister, this is a sign that the skin has been burned by UVB rays which damage the outermost layers of the skin and can lead to skin cancers such as melanoma.

UVA rays penetrate the deeper layers of the skin, where fibres such as collagen and elastin are produced.  These fibres are what give our skin plumpness and bounce.  As the UVA rays’ repeated penetration accumulates, the production of these fibres is impaired, and we will first see fine lines and flaccid skin on the tops of our hands and feet, around the eyes, and the neck.

I AM BROWN, I AM PROTECTED

The short answer is that deeper the shade of skin, the more melanin is present so there is more natural protection, but it comes with several caveats and limitations.

Darker skin contains more melanin, a substance created by skin cells called melanocytes, that gives us our colouring, and also absorbs harmful UV rays so that your DNA is protected.  However, there is a limit to its protective ability and if stressed the melanin production will create age spots and dark patches.  The latter effect becomes more pronounced over time, and serves as a permanent reminder of our unprotected days in the sun.

I AM CANADIAN, THE SUMMER SUN IS NOT THAT BIG A DEAL

Everyone on the planet, regardless of your geographic location, needs to consider the impact of the sun’s ray on their skin.  The fact that people in colder countries have less warmth does not mean that the sun is less present.  Remember that the sun’s rays bounce off icy surfaces and penetrate the skin.  Sun protection is a year-round relevant issue for people who live in hot and cold countries.  Remember the issue is not about the warmth of the sun’s rays; it is about its penetration.

Most of the sun exposure we experience happens when are engaging in daily activities such as sitting next to a window or taking a walk in the park.  The accumulation of these experiences causes damage and should be assessed with the same care that you take when you plan a beach vacation.

BUT I NEED MY VITAMIN D… AND I REFUSE TO LIVE IN A CAVE

Vitamin D, aka the sunshine vitamin, is essential for bone growth and development; and helps with cell growth and nerve, muscle, and immune function. The sun stimulates the body’s ability to produce this vitamin.  To that end, I have read that some experts advocate for walking in the sun without protection for 10-15 minutes a day, but my concern is that if we lose track of time, especially on glorious days when there is no humidity, a touch of warmth, and a low pollen count, that the 10-15 minutes can become a whole afternoon. This issue is of particular importance when the sun’s rays are strongest, between 11 am and 3 pm, and the skin should be especially covered and protected.

I get blood tests to ensure that I am meet medical baseline measures for adequate presence of vitamins and minerals, and I also eat healthily. Foods such mushrooms, almonds, tuna, chicken, lentils, banana and applesauce, which are sources of vitamin D, are part of my regular diet.  I have struck the balance between my need for vitamin D and my goal to limit sun damage.

OKAY, I WILL GIVE SUNSCREEN A CHANCE, BUT WHAT IS IT?

Sunscreens are cream, gel, lotion or stick products that are designed to either physical block the sun’s rays or to absorb them.  If a sunscreen acts like the former, it usually contains titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, and creates a film on the skin, and if it is the latter, it contains ingredients such as avobenzone, homosalate, octocrylene, octisalate, octinoxate and oxybenzone, which absorb the sun’s rays.

Depending on your skin type, and textural preferences, either can be used to protect the skin.  There have been troubling headlines about chemical sunscreens and both the FDA and Health Canada have examined the issue and the latter states:

“… sunscreen absorption doesn’t equal risk; the findings don’t mean that any of the ingredients are unsafe for use people shouldn’t stop using sunscreen.”

A sunscreen to be sold in Canada must have a DIN or a Natural Product Number issued by Health Canada in order to state that it is a sunscreen.  Sunscreens are commonly labelled with a DIN, and it signals that the product, “… has undergone and passed a review of its formulation, labeling and instructions for use.”

READING A SUNSCREEN LABEL – NO PhD NEEDED

Every sunscreen that I have used comes with dense labelling i.e. Ingredients, instructions and descriptions.  When you are shopping for sunscreens, these are some handy pointers:

1. The label should read broad spectrum, which means that the product protects against UVA and UVB rays.
2. SPF stands for sun protection factor which is a “relative measure of how long it will take for unprotected skin to burn in the sun compared to how long it will take if the recommended amount of sunscreen is used.” The higher the number, in theory , means the longer the protection but remember that you may apply an inadequate amount to achieve the stated protection, you can sweat it off and the sun’s rays may be particularly strong which means that the SPF provides a rough idea but should not be taken at face value.  Focus on products that are at least a broad-spectrum SPF 30 and above because they provide a great basic protection but remember that the higher the number does not mean that an extraordinarily higher level of protection.
3. You may see a PA+ indication which typically signals that it is an Asian product. This ranking indicates the strength of the product against UVA rays; the more pluses the stronger the UVA protection.

SUNSCREEN APPLICATION TIPS

I have always been puzzled by people who apply skincare but refuse to wear sunscreen.  It is like taking a bath in dirty water, you nullify the act of becoming clean because of the dirty water.  Similarly, each evening when we apply skin care, if we then expose the skin to the sun it undoes the reparative work of serums.

I consider sun protection to be so important that I treat it as a distinct step from skin care.  Each morning after applying my skin care (cleanse, serum, moisturise), I apply 1.5 tsp of sun protection to my face, neck and ears.  I follow that with a sunscreen for the eyes and lips.  I suggest using a teaspoon to ensure that you squeeze out the correct amount; for sunscreens too little is no point, you need to master using the correct amount to get the stated SPF on your skin. After these three sun protection products are applied, I allow them to soak into the skin, for about 10 minutes and use that time to fix my hair and to answer emails.  I never rely on the SPF in my foundation as a source of protection because I would look like I basted my face, neck and ears in product to reach the stated SPF amount.

Additionally, during the day, I make sure to carry a colourless sun stick to pass quickly over the planes of my face when I step out of the office.  I also carry a spray sunscreen to pass over my arms, chest, legs and feet to ensure that the delicate skin is protected.  My handbag can accommodate a water bottle, so it can easily expand to include sun protection.  I emphasise that I do not leave my products in the car, because when it gets hot, the extreme temperature can negatively impact the protective ingredients in the sun protection.

PICKING THE RIGHT SUNSCREEN

For brown-skinned beauties, sunscreen has been a tough issue because previously formulations left us looking like we dipped our faces into a vat of flour, a.k.a. attah syndrome.  Thankfully, sunscreen technology has come a long way, and we have many types of sunscreens that look great on South Asian skin tones.

Sunscreen, like cosmetics, have not escaped the trend of combining actives to enhance the main goal of a product, i.e. the product provides sun protection and combats fine lines, even skin tone… etc.

CLEARLY EFFECTIVE

Laboratoires Vichy is a world renowned for its effective skin products, and its sun protection ones are no exception.  I was slack-jawed by the completely colourless and odourless, lightweight milky product named UV + Age Daily Lotion Anti-Aging Protective Lotion. It contains niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, that makes the skin stronger, smoother and brighter.  I loved how my skin drank in the product, it never migrated into my eyes when I went outside and it let my skin colour some through.  The pump formula makes this sun protection a natural for my vanity!

Koa Mineral Sunscreen SPF 45 PA+++ in Tint 0 is a mineral sunscreen that is a lightweight lotion that does not clog my pores (I have oily cheeks and nose), and it smoothed my skin.  I liked that this squeeze bottle is easy to pack if you are going out to do sports, because the plastic is tough and can withstand being stuffed into a bag, and there is minimal leakage risk.

Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral SPF 30 is a broad-spectrum sunscreen that initially goes on white but after a few seconds, it becomes colourless on my skin.  The lotion has a jelly like texture like the line’s Squalane + Omega Repair Cream, and I love massaging it into my skin.  The squalane keeps my skin hydrated and creates a particularly smooth canvass for complexion products.

SUNSCREEN OR SKIN MAKE UP?

Sunscreens are not only being used as a vehicle to deliver skin care benefits, but they are also enhancing our tint.  I have a medium skin tone, so I was a tad wary of these products because I did not want to look like Ghostface in June… or any month for that matter.  The following two products impressed me and I recommend that you test a droplet on your skin prior to purchase to ensure that the tint works for your skin tone.

In my younger days, my akin was so oily, I could have asked to join OPEC.  As I have traversed the sands of time, my skin is less oily, except for my nose and cheeks, so I was intrigued by the Shiseido Shikulime Color Control Oil-Free Moisturizer Broad Spectrum 30, because this white, odourless cream is supposed to blur imperfections.  I squeezed out the requisite 1.5 tsp on the palm of my hand and closed my eyes tightly as I massaged my face because I believed that I would end up with a pasty beige finish. I did not. In fact, I was impressed how my face looked like it was being seeing through the lens of a filter, and my skin stayed matte all day.  The product looked natural on my neck and ears, and when I spot applied my foundation, it was seamless.

If you have normal to dry skin, Skinceuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 50 is a great alternative.  The lightweight, odourless lotion is quickly absorbed by the skin, and the tint aspect is great.  My skin tone looked even and natural.  I loved how easy it was to work this thin product into the crevices of my face, and it set quickly.  This product is an OG classic, and with good reason!

Wander Beauty Pack Up & Glow SPF 40 is primer and broad-spectrum sunscreen in one lightweight squeeze bottle that is designed for women on the go.  The product infuses the skin with a glow, with no white cast, and creates a smooth canvass for foundation, while providing strong protection. If you look fatigued, apply this product to look instantly awake and refreshed!  It also looks nice on the neck and ears, and is truly a dual purpose product.

REFRESHED AND READY!

I have mentioned the importance of re-applying sunscreen, and I confess that I am sometimes remiss in this department.  I spend most of my time indoors and my office has no window, but I have still made it a point to correct my behaviour by always carrying a sunscreen stick and a bottle of sunscreen spray in my handbag.  If yor are outside andactive, re-apply sunscreen every two hours.

A great sunscreen touch up stick is the Live Tinted Hueguard® Invisible Sunscreen Stick SPF 50.  It weighs 22 grams, hence it is quite light and compact, so it will easily fit into your fanny pack and day tote.  This colourless, odourless broad-spectrum sunscreen easily glides onto the skin, and covers the planes of the face and neck, without messing up the make-up underneath.  If I am glistening, and can feel my skin heating up, I like to tap a blotting sheet on my forehead, nose, cheeks and chin, to soak up sweat, without smudging my make-up.  Once my skin is dry, I lightly glide a stick across the planes of my face, my neck, my chest and ears, and continue my walk.

I also tote around a spray sunscreen such as the Clarins Sunscreen Body Lotion Spray SPF 50+ because its mist feels light and refreshing, and this broad-spectrum lotion not only protects against the sun, it infuses the skin with aloe to soothe it, and it dries quickly to fresh finish.  I pay extra attention to my hands and feet, because the skin is thinner and needs extra TLP (tender loving protection).

 THE SPECIALISTS

I am always puzzled by how people who apply sunscreen everywhere, do not consider the importance of protecting the eye contour and lips.  These two areas are delicate and have no oil glands, hence they will show the signs of aging faster.

I have been a devotee of the Supergoop! Bright-Eyed 100% Mineral Eye Cream SPF 40, because its not only depuffs and brightens my dark circles but it also protects my eyelids and undereye.  This product was specifically formulated for the eye area and it goes on featherlight.  It does not make my eyeshadow pill, and as someone who did not wear sunglasses for years, I am convinced that this product saved me from damage.

For the lips, I have tried some sunscreen lip balms that tasted bitter and they were unbearable.  I am impressed with the Nudestix Nudescreen Lip Primer SPF 30 because this lightly tinted, broad-spectrum lip base also nourishes the delicate lip area with Green Algae, Purple Tea and Passionflower.  This product takes the guesswork on how to protect the delicate lips.

If you tend to have dry colour it, the sun is no friend of our obsidian strands.  For this reason, I love the René Furterer Solaire Protective Summer Oil because it is a nourishing oil that is designed to plump and nourish the strands.  It contains a high UV protection, KPF 50+ which means Keratin Protective Factor which is akin to SPF for the hair.  This product contains the highest protection available, and what I love is that after a day of running errands my hair felt soft.  That evening, I decided to straighten my hair, and the oil acted as a heat protectant.

SUNNY THOUGHTS, NO SPF NEEDED IN THE MIND

I recall that when I was a teenager who suffered from acne, I used to read articles on skin care.  I had come across one about the damaging effects of the sun, and how they could darken scars; as someone who picked her pimples with zeal that thought filled me with fear.  I started to wear sunscreen, which was so greasy and gross, when I was 18, to protect my skin during the summer.  By the time I reached my early twenties, I started to wear sunscreen year-round, and it is by far the best beauty decision I have ever made.  My skin is still firm and even-toned and I walk in public, and even post on social media, without make-up. My complexion is not perfect but it is a testament to the power of regular, consistent suncare.

I am delighted that the formulations have improved, and now offer multiple benefits that suit the needs of busy people who yearn for protection and convenience.  Above all, with the colourless formulae on the market, the term ashen cast should be left in the past as we embrace sunny days ahead.

Featured Image: Tyla Photo Credit: Instagram