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Highlights From Dior Fall/Winter 2023 Show In Mumbai
The couture houses of Paris have always loved exploring various iconic locations across the world for their next show-stopping presentations. This time, Dior decided it was time to celebrate their Fall/Winter 2023 collection at the Gateway of India. With Bollywood and Hollywood in attendance including the stalwarts of fashion, Under the watchful eye of Dior’s Creative Director Maria Grazia Churi, her mesmerizing collection came to life. The design house also celebrated their relationship with Chanakya International, a local artisanal hub where their work in keeping the art of Indian embroidery alive, is part of their overall mantra of economically supporting women. Check out our fave looks right here!
As they day it’s all in the details. And Dior has definitely made an impression not only in the macro but definitely in the micro sense. With their first ever runway show in India, choosing the Gateway of India landmark was match made in couture heaven. The backdrop of impeccably designed arch, with ramps extending out which seemed to last forever covered in an incredible rangoli-inspired mosaic showcasing the traditional iconic motifs that have been engrained in Indian heritage.
According to their social post, “For the occasion, the magnificent structure was fronted by an ephemeral arch, almost eight meters high, covered with a toran, a decorative hanging spectacularly hand-embroidered with symbolic iconography by the master artisans of Chanakya International and the [their] students, a task that took a total of 35,000 hours. Delineating the runway, thousands of cut flowers combined to form the intricate patterns glowing beneath the lights in two installations extending nearly the length of the esplanade. ”
With over 99 models, Dior’s Creative Director Maria Grazia Churi knew she had a huge task on hand. In today’s current social climate it can seem to be near impossible to appreciate a culture without being accused of vulturism. When showcasing a collection in a country where silhouettes can be seen as vastly different than those seen and celebrated in the mainstream space, there is also the sense of duty to be able to straddle both lines of avant-garde couture while not insulting the sensibilities of the host country (as modern as India is, there is always that internal battle of East-meets-West when it comes to fashion).
So Dior decided to spin the narrative and not only present a FW2023 collection but fuse it with key striking elements which represent India. And what a blend it was!
Working with Chanakya International an artisanal hub where their mantra is to create economic support for women and girls through creating various fashion workshops and programs, Dior brought the school to the forefront by commissioning embroidered work and fabrics to be blended into their existing collection.
The Dior Book Tote underwent and Indian revamp with motifs, while patchworks come alive in another jacket ensemble.
Chanakya artisans showcased their dazzling sequin and mirror embroideries with a seductive and invigorating colour palette as seen above and below.
Not only was embroidery the featured attraction, there was also an homage to the technical treatments that are synonymous with Indian fabrics. Namely block prints and the famous Madras check, which Dior delivered through special commissioned fabrics from Chanakya.
“Nature makes its presence palpably felt in the motifs of #DiorFall23 by @MariaGraziaChiuri. As revealed at Thursday evening’s show in Mumbai, ‘Jardin Indien’, a new iteration of toile de Jouy featuring Indian flora and flora, alludes to the subcontinental origins of a textile that, centuries ago, gave birth to a distinctly French variation. An archival and characteristically 60s motif from the Marc Bohan era was revived and embellished with @Chanakya.In embroideries. Other examples include the tiger stripes of a coat [below] and the appliqués of lotus flowers.”
“The #DiorFall23 collection by @MariaGraziaChiuri, shown in Mumbai on Thursday evening, is a joyous ode to the colors of India, with evocative names like rani pink, neela blue and jamuni violet. From solid jolts to multihued motifs, from vibrant silks to lustrous jacquards, tie-dye to opulent embroideries by @Chanakya.In, the pieces include several specially developed shades.”
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Dior’s presentation and their embrace and homage of Indian textile heritage definitely has been a rousing success. Whether these pieces will be available for sale has yet to be determined, but it goes without saying that Dior’s cultural and societal observations and their genuine appreciation of it all has definitely made this one of the standout moments of this year’s couture scene.
Main Image Photo Credit: www.instagram.com
Hina P. Ansari
Author
Hina P. Ansari is a graduate from The University of Western Ontario (London, Ontario). Since then she has carved a successful career in Canada's national fashion-publishing world as the Entertainment/Photo Editor at FLARE Magazine, Canada's national fashion magazine. She was the first South Asian in...
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