Why chase the rainbow when you can reach it using it eyeshadow? We’ve got tips on how to add brightness and colour to your eyes with hues that are perfect for brown skin!
Kajal is undoubtedly the king of South Asian eye beauty looks but eyeshadow is no shrinking violet. Eyeshadow possesses the power to cover and to create smoulder, and with our colouring, this is a beauty product that should be mastered.
PRIMED AND READY
Eyeshadow comes in a variety of shades which mimic flesh tones. If you colour wash the eyes, i.e. apply it from the lash line to under the eyebrow, you instantly brighten the area and create a canvass for subsequent artistry. I always hydrate and protect my eyes prior to makeup application each morning so it is primed for eyeshadow. If your eyelids are oily, then set the eyeshadow with a primer such as Fenty Beauty Pro Filt’r Amplifying Eye Primer because it is lightweight and sets easily.
NEUTRAL BASE, DECISION, DECISIONS
In terms of colour washing with a neutral eyeshadow, you should first decide on the formula: powder or cream, and then select a colour. I stand by the Laura Mercier Eye Basics collection because it contains six shades, so any South Asian beauty can find her basic, brightening neutral, and this creamy formula sets quickly and lasts all day. I like to tap the product twice on the eyelid, and then used my freshly-washed left ring finger to colour wash. I repeat the step on the other eyelid.
If your eyelids tend to be oily, then I recommend a matte powder eyeshadow base that you sparingly colour wash. The best way to apply a base eyeshadow is to use a flat, densely packed duckbilled shape eyeshadow brush because its surface permits you cover many square millimetres with a few taps and the tapered tip allows you to access the inner corner. My all-time favourite is Make Up For Ever Shader Brush – Large 230, because its bristles trap enough powder, that when you gently tap it on the lid, you will not need to apply a second layer.
In terms of neutral, matte eyeshadows, I like the MAC Cosmetics Eye Shadow because there are many subtle variation on taupes and nudes, which ensure that the rainbow of South Asian beauties will find a great shade. I reviewed the ones that are classified in the beige category and was pleased to observe that it is not limited to ashen mushroom shades that wash out our beauty. I recommend the following: Malt for light skin tones; Brulé for medium skin tones, and Omega for dark skin tones.
Once the basic, lasting neutral is colour washed, you can apply a kitten flick, a few coats of mascara, and you are done. However, if you want a more done or dramatic look, read on for more tips…
COLOURFUL SMOKY EYE
To achieve a colourful smoky eye, I recommend using a powder eyeshadow because it is easier to blend the colours to achieve gradation from dark to light. In the picture below, Priyanka Chopra Jonas demonstrates the allure of the green smoky eye, and you are only a palette and three brushes away from achieving the look.
I recommend trying the Charlotte Tilbury Luxury Palette in Green Lights.
The shimmery quartet contains a soft primer, a shade for the crease, a shade for liner and one that you dab at the centre of the eye to add a pop of dazzle. Below are my steps on how to achieve a colourful smoky eye:
Apply the gold shade (top left hand corner of the palette) using my beloved Make Up Forever 230 Brush, just to mobile lid, making sure to dab a bit of extra powder on the inner corner of the eye.
Dip my Make Up For Ever Angled Shader 234 Brush just once, on the medium peridot shade (located on the top righthand corner of the palette), and then dab it gently along the crease starting from the outer corner of the eye and stopping mid-iris. If your eyes are wide set, continue to define the crease until you are two-thirds in.
I drag just the tip of my Make Up For Ever Precision Smudger Brush – Medium – 212 just once on the darkest shade in the palette (bottom right hand corner).
I gingerly place the tip of the 212 brush at the outer corner and work the eyeshadow into the lash line, and stopping a few millimetres short of the inner corner of the eye.
I then adjust the angle of the 212 brush such that its tapered part touches the upper lash line and then I smudge it, following the path I created with the initial intense line.
I lightly dip the 212 brush in the darkest shade and tap little dots along the lower lash line, being careful to not draw a harsh, uninterrupted line.
I place the tapered part of the 212 brush atop the dots and smudge them , until they are linked together, creating a diffuse line of colour.
I pat the 230 brush on the platinum shade (lower left hand corner) and tap it once on the centre of mobile lid.
COLOUR WASHING WITH ATTITUDE
Colour washing is an efficient and effective means to minimize darkness, but it is also a great way to achieve a statement look with minimal effort. In the picture below, Anya Chalotra rocks an orange eye that is modern and professional.
I recommend using eyeshadow sticks for this look because it can be achieved with one stroke on the mobile lid. To copy Anya, I suggest trying Live Tinted Hue Stick in Terracotta, an unapologetic yam shade that flatters South Asian skin tones.
Once I have stroked on a healthy amount of Terracotta, I immediately use a dry sponge to spread it to the inner corner of the eye. I then lightly tap the sponge, spreading the pigment to the crease, but ensuring that it does not look as intense the mobile lid. I complete the colour washing by dabbing the sponge a few times under the eyebrow, being careful to leave a soft halo of colour. At this point you can opt to apply a smudgy liner, but I prefer to use a dramatic mascara= to lend some definition to the look.
SMOULDERING ON YOUR OWN TERMS
Eyeshadow is a wonderful opportunity to practise artistry on a great canvass — your eyelids! The trick to great application is to use quality brushes and sponges to enable you to manipulate the product(s). Once you have a great base, the rainbow becomes your playground … so enjoy!
Main Image Photo Credit:
Meena Khan | Features Editor - Beauty
Author
Meena (@meenalaregina) always loved the idea of exploring the non-conventional idea of beauty. Having grown up as a pimply chubby teenager, she wanted to see the change in the world that best reflected your uniqueness as well. Her well-received collection of blogs where she tries on various beauty p...