/ Next Gen Spot Fixers

by Anokhi Admin

Next Gen Spot Fixers

Jul 06, 2014

When it comes to tackling hyperpigmentation and age spots, skin-brightening creams are the way to go.

A new generation of skin-brightening products are focused on clarifying one’s skin tone, rather than lightening or bleaching skin. These products leave behind harmful ingredients (no mercury, bleach, steroids or hydroquinone) and introduce gentler ingredients that are still total workhorses. Free radical-fighting antioxidant ingredients work in conjunction with brightening ingredients to maximize the positive impact that each application has on your skin tone and your skin’s overall health. This new generation of products works to even out hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone and acne scars, all common concerns for ethnic women in North America.

While tanned skin is coveted, exposure to UVA/UVB light prematurely ages skin and increases the risk of developing skin cancer. Anyone who has spent time in the sun without protection as a youth can attest to the premature development of sunspots on their skin. Sunspots are the sun’s lasting demarcation on our skin, and these splotches of uneven pigmentation are precisely what the new skin-brightening products are geared towards addressing.

Dr. Lori Shapiro, dermatologist and founder of Thornhill Dermatology Centre and assistant professor of medicine at the University of Toronto, says there are alternatives to effective yet hazardous ingredients like hydroquinone. She explains that the different combinations of active ingredients in SkinCeuticals Advanced Skin Discoloration Corrector (she is a skin care expert for the brand) could yield comparable results without any harm or side effects. “A variety of plant extracts or plant-derived ingredients such as ellagic acid have been used as effective skin brighteners,” she says. “This particular combination [ellagic acid, salicylic acid, hydroxyphenoxypropionic acid and a five per cent yeast extract] was put to the test against four per cent hydroquinone, the benchmark product of skin brightening and fared comparatively in reducing pigmentation,” she explained. This illustrates that not only do you have safe alternatives, but that some can also be plant-based, leaving harsh chemicals in the past.

Laura Goodman, senior scientist at P&G, encourages examining the ingredients of skin care products to ensure they are addressing hyperpigmentation in it’s various stages. Olay’s latest brightening offering, the Regenerist Luminous range, contains vitamin E and green tea for antioxidant benefits and it’s also packed with n-acetyl glucosamine, which inhibits hyperpigmentation from forming while breaking down existing hyperpigmentation, and niacinamide, which prevents pigmentation from transferring to neighbouring melanin cells. As far as frequency of application goes, “Consistency is key to optimal results,” Goodman says.

And equally important, Dr. Shapiro explains, “A mainstay of [brightening skin care] is the use of a broadspectrum sunscreen. This agent will protect against future ultraviolet-induced skin discoloration. The latter tends to accentuate the hyperpigmentation, providing a bigger gap in skin tone between the person’s normal skin colour and the hyperpigmented areas.” In order to prevent sun damage from occurring and triggering new hyperpigmentation formation, sunscreen applications every day (regardless of weather) are a necessity, and multiple applications are crucial when outside during peak hours. A commitment to routine is bound to produce a more unified skin tone and never underestimate the power of skin care basics. “You will experience an instant level of skin brightening just by cleansing, exfoliating and moisturizing the skin the first time,” Goodman says.

Blend It In

If you’re after brighter skin, try incorporating one or several of these products into your current skin care routine for a unified, radiant look:

The Body Shop Moisture White Shiso Brightening Serum, $36 CDN, promises to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and brighten skin in as little as two weeks, for a more even-toned and translucent complexion.

Olay Regenerist Luminous Brightening Cream Cleanser, $16 CDN, has a creamy texture with micro-exfoliating beads to increase cell turnover. It also contains dualocclusive humectants to increase hydration levels in skin, ensuring your skin will not dry out from daily cleansing.

SkinCeuticals Advanced Skin Discoloration Corrector, $104 CDN, is best applied to skin twice daily. This lightweight fluid contains ellagic acid, salicylic acid and a five per cent yeast extract in order to break up patches of uneven pigmentation as well as enhance skin’s resistance to new pigmentation patches.

Burt’s Bees Brightening Even-Tone Moisturizing Cream, $30 CDN, is perfect for the eco-conscious skin care seeker. This moisturizer is 99 per cent natural and uses daisy extract in conjunction with multi-fruit acids to correct uneven pigmentation for a brighter, more unified tone.

Fresh Peony Brightening Night Treatment Mask, $76 CDN, is an overnight mask that can be substituted in for your usual night cream at least two nights per week. The formula delivers dark spot reduction and a brightening effect thanks to the powerful trio of licorice root extract, vitamin C and peony extract.

BY POONAM KAUR BILLING

PUBLISHED IN THE HEALTH & WELLNESS ISSUE/
SUMMER 2014