Issue 54 / Pakistan Fashion Week 9 London Gives Trend to Tradition

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Pakistan Fashion Week 9 London Gives Trend to Tradition

Jun 13, 2016

The popular runway show  showcased a unique collection of Pakistan's top designers. 


The 9th edition of Pakistan Fashion Week (PFW) in London showcased the latest trends and takes on tradition in Asian designer wear from contemporary and resort collections to bridal and formal wear. The event had nuances of a fairytale: decadent, fantasy-inspired wedding wear, dreamy colour schemes, the romantic gesture of the timeless rose, and femme fatale fabrics thrown in for good measure and pleasure.

 

La Vie En Rose

Ultra-feminine floral motifs flowed across runways the world over this fashion season and this was certainly true at PFW-9 in London last week across all designers and collections from wedding and formal to resort and loungewear. But it was the iconic rose that rose above all of the more basic botanicals and became the showstopper, threading its way into multiple designs across the board. Moazzam Abbasi, Al Zohaib and Shamaeel Ansari all honoured the resurgence of the rose in their collections from resort to evening wear alike.

Ansari's rose-embroidered blazers imposed femininity and softness to her structured jackets and Zohaib's caped separates beautifully embroidered with rose vines was simply breathtaking. Flower power came from other designers as well: floral patterns and paisley prints mixed with traditional brocade on stunning raw silk was a major factor in the designs by Gul Ahmed Textiles — and the cuts were quite cutting edge to say the least. Designer Flora’s florals (pun definitely intended) contained embedded flower symbols in muted tones. Nature meets space-age technology seemed to be the theme for Gogi by Hassan Riaz with his futuristic metallic-lace floral interpretation. Sapphire Resort Collection showcased florals in a Bohemian Rhapsody sort of way, and designer Noorulain had her own floral take. Not sure whether to get on this trend that’s getting more traction than any other? My advice: best to just go with the flow(er).


Shamaeel Ansari
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Al Zohaib Textiles
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London
 

Gul Ahmed Textiles
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Gogi by Hassan Riaz
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Sapphire
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London


Flora
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London


Noorulain
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London
 

Moazzam Abbasi
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Capelette Couture

Capelette-inspired stand-out separates (that reminded one of fairytale-inspired capes) dueled and quite frankly conquered the traditional chunni or dupatta in the wedding collection of Ayesha Aejaz. She used the same poncho-style as a statement piece to go over Western-inspired evening wear as well as as Arabian-styled jumpsuits.

The embroidery was exquisite, bold and detailed ranging from traditional to peacock-inspired motifs. Tones were naturally muted (in keeping with with the general pantone colour schemes this season) but strategic also from a design perspective as the outfits served as a canvas for the emboldened ponchos themselves. In her collection, designer Iqra Saqib also gave the poncho look a blouse/blazer feel in her resort and lounge wear and she used the poncho over day dresses, satiny separates and evening wear. Overall, the ponchos packed a punch and were a hit for both designers because they gave the otherwise more understated ensembles a touch of panache. The result: dreamy, charming and win-win.

Ayesha Aejaz
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London


Ayesha Aejaz

Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Iqra Saqib
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

 

Pastel Palace

Still all about fantasy, femininity and subdued colour schemes this season, pastels were a huge trend among most designers — even in wedding collections, a contrast from wedding collections past. But don't mistake pastels for pristine: full-on decadance is more like it, especially from designers like Nida Azwer, Mahogany by Sam Dada, Moazzam Abbasi, Rani Emaan and Rozina Munib to name a few.

Nida Azwer took pastels to a whole new level with her lucious weddng wear that featured muted greens with white and gold and bold cutwork threading and rich embroidery. Rani Eman opted for gold tone-on-tone stunning wedding wear and Sam Dada featured elegant light greens lehengas with unique designs and traditional embellished embroidery that adorned and completed each design like crowning jewellery. Fit for a queen.

Mahogany by Sam Dada
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/Official Photography PFW9 London

Rani Emaan
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Nida Azwer
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/ Official Photography PFW9 London

Naughty by Nature

But like in almost any other fairytale, this tale too has the dark thread of a temptress (or two) weaving through it, and these femme fatale fabrications prove to be just as seductive and irresistable. Gogi by Hassan Riaz bent nature to his will with his futuristic nature wreaks havoc collection. Gul Ahmed Textiles' creations bordered on wild tempestuous tribal with paisley-style animal-inspired prints. And designer Agha Noor revolted against the traditional salwaar kameez in skin-baring ensembles from her resort collection. While these tempestuous, dark-suited designs may have the last word, we’re still quite happy with this particular ending.

Gogi by Hassan Riaz
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/Official Photography PFW9 London

Gul Ahmed Textiles
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/Official Photography PFW9 London

Agha Noor
Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/Official Photography PFW9 London

 

Main Image Photo Credit: Shahid Malik/Official Photography PFW9 London
 

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Wendy Kaur

Author

Wendy Kaur is a fashion, beauty and lifestyle writer and journalist who specializes on covering luxury brands, notable names in historical and high jewellery, and profiles on acclaimed personalities.  Her portfolio includes the Robb Report, FASHION, NUVO, Flaunt,<...

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