Issue 22 / Dolce Vita in Aosta Valley, Italy

by Aparna Pednekar

Dolce Vita in Aosta Valley, Italy

Nov 06, 2015

In the tranquil Aosta Valley in Northwest Italy, at the foot of the mighty Mont Blanc, the charming ski town of Courmayeur is home to a sophisticated gourmet scene, world-class wine, scenic Alpine chalets and the occasional mishti surprise.

It seems I’ve been skulking around European borders a lot lately: at Heidiland in the Swiss Alps on the Swiss-Austrian border; in the adorable little town of Aguallana on the Spain-France border; and now, at the foot of the Italian Alps in northwest Italy bordering France. Given that the beloved homeland is a gargantuan subcontinent that could be easily split (let’s hope not) into at least 16 different countries, this naturally schizophrenic existence comes easily to Indians. But it was my first time in the Italian Alps and my first on Turkish Airlines. Besides the usual Business Class perks, it's worth splurging on a premium ticket just for the mint lemonade refills, the nutty, spongy Turkish delights and the bonus of the Istanbul layover. The city’s having its moment on the global travel index and there’s no bigger testament to its contemporary East-West charm than the Turkish Airways CIP Lounge at Atatürk Airport.

^{The Turkish Airlines CIP Lounge.

Photo Credit: Turkish Airlines}

The airline has a complimentary city tour service for layovers that extend beyond five hours, but it's difficult to leave the super chic 12,000-square foot space with its white arches, lattice work, tea room, library and theatre, mimicking the hospitable Kervansaray (traditional inns) experience. The palatial lounge was designed in 2011 by Autoban, one of the hottest design firms in the world. (If you’re in Istanbul, you must drop in at their new studio at the Bomonti Culture and Entertainment Center.) Suffice to say that borders begin melting into each other — even before the Italian-French Alps connect — and very flamboyantly at that. Business Class perks means there are plenty of yummy surprises on the Istanbul-Milan route, not the least oif which is a very agreeable chef on board who'll warm your pasta just that bit more and replace the shrimp with chicken if need be.

^{Chef on board Turkish Airlines from Istanbul to Milan.

Photo Credit: Turkish Airlines}

After a day at the gorgeous Casta Diva resort at Lake Como (where the overt raison d’etre is to ogle George Clooney’s multimillion dollar villa) I find myself in the lovely alpine town of Courmayeur in Aosta Valley, flush with beautiful Pyrenees mountain dogs and their friendly owners. Aosta is Italy’s least populated regions, and Courmayeur is its biggest attraction. The smaller towns include Champoluc, Cervinia and Gressoney. Don’t expect to run into Sicilian mafia lords and Milanese glamazons in these parts. Instead, you’ll find a quiet but friendly populace; families downing fondue and polenta at local brasseries, couples getting ready to conquer the Mont Blanc and a burgeoning Asian influence. I’m with Giulia Maschio, an Italian who has seen more of India than most Indians. An Shivananda yoga teacher (with a PhD in contemporary Hindi literature from Paris) she moves between India and Italy with yogic agility. Over lunch at the buzzing Brasserie D'Europe — it’s literally buzzing, and slightly spinning, after only half a glass of the local poison génépy, a clear, very potent sort of absinthe — we discuss her Indian adventures from Pandharpur to Amarnath. This very French brasserie is ensconced in the newly-renovated Duca d’Aosta Hotel, a great place to stay with its retro-Italian theme, plush sofas, glowing fireplace in the lobby and new rooms.

^{Lunch at Brasserie D'Europe.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

^{Duca d’Aosta Hotel's retro-Italian style lobby.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

Walking around town, post-lunch, I pick up a few grollas as souvenirs. A vertical wooden chalice, the grolla is an Aosta symbol, as is the Friendship Cup, a wooden cup with multiple spouts, used to share the traditional caffè alla valdostana (coffee with grappa, genipi liqueur and spices) with a big fat happy gang of friends.

^{A rack of the classic Aosta souvenirs: Friendhip Cups.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

We’re put up at the cheerful Villa Novecento, where the chef has a surprise in store: an Indian meal. Though the tandoor rotis are on the crisper side and the dal is undercooked, there’s a delish chicken curry (not too spicy), elegant masala eggplant, bruscheta and a most mishti sign-off, a super-cute trio of sandesh.

^{Indian desserts at Villa Novecento.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

Thanks go out to one elusive Mr. Iqbal Adan, a Pakistani entrepreneur-chef who’s single-handedly pioneering curries and kormas in Aosta, which has its own formidable gourmet reputation. The next day, we locate his little Indian eatery – Himalaya – in Aosta centre and discover that it serves up excellent samosas, chubby and crisp pakodas, hot chai and has a smiling young server from Islamabad.

^{Indian pakoras, Italian style.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

The highlight of the trip – indeed its raison d’être – is the Mont Blanc Skyway. Touristy, but impressively swanky (it cost €110 million and was four years in the making) and great fun. If you’re not going to ski down the Skyway is how you should do the mighty Mont Blanc. As an added bonus, the weather gods bless us with gentle snowing. The cable car — rotating a full 360 degrees as its zips up and down — runs between three stations and along the route offers a full view of the majestic peaks and lush Aosta Valley. We depart from the swanky, aerodynamic-structured Pontal d'Entrèves.

^{The chic, contemporary Pontal d'Entrèves, base of the Mont Blanc Skyway.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

At the third station, the crystal-shaped modernist Punta Helbronner at 11,370 feet, there’s a circular terrace that lets us enjoy the views, frolic in the snow and take selfies until the cows come home — or go across the Val ferret border to Switzerland.

Snowing at 11,370 feet on the Mont Blanc.
^{Photo Credit: Giulia Maschino}

After another Indian lunch with signature undercooked dal but superbh kheer, at the summit at Pavillon restaurant, I contemplate picking up a bottle of Blanc de Morgex et de La Salle Piagne. This biological wine is produced here in Morgex (we visit the winery later) in the vineyards the highest in Europe. After zipping back to ground, there’s another treat in store, a helicopter ride over the valley.

^{Giulia's selfie in the helicopter.

Photo Credit: Giulia Maschio}

A day later, after wine tastings and mini treks at Gran Paradiso National Park, it’s time to leave for Milan, but not before a farewell dinner at Au Coeur des Neiges, a most splendid chalet resort, where the Versace Milanese team have just left after a shoot. La Vita la moda!

^{Ciao to Mont Blanc from Au Couer Des Neiges.

Photo Credit: Aparna Pednekar}

^{Main Image Photo Credit: Giulia Maschino (Vantage view of the Aosta Valley)}

Aparna Pednekar

Author

Aparna is an India - based travel writer for leading lifestyle and fashion publications. She's also a gemologist and jewelry designer. New cities, new food, cats, dogs, snakes, hours of walking and driving fuel her incurable ADD.