Designers “Let It Go” at Paris's 2014 Fall/Winter Haute Couture Fashion Week.
For a couple of seasons we’ve applauded designers for their pragmatism. Even accessories as extravagant as Dolce & Gabbana’s jewelled gloves serve an alternate purpose. We can envision ourselves wearing them, and so the mass public has come to follow each fashion week with progressively more hype and excitement, not just because of social media, but because we can imagine that this world of glamour is accessible to us.
The gowns as a mainstay of the collections suggest that Haute Couture Week hasn’t evolved, yet that fantastical world is a reminder of what drew me and so many others to fashion in the first place. This year some of the world’s most impressive fashion houses walked collections that have only served to enhance that magical, carefree appeal.
Ice Princesses
Elie Saab’s designs were inspired by Disney’s movie Frozen. If you ever need an example of fantasy, Disney is the way to go, but Elie Saab’s shimmering blue, red and golden icy affairs are a reminder that when it comes to what you need versus what you want, sometimes fun just comes first.
Elie Saab
Elie Saab
Femme Fatales
We’ve become so used to Jean Paul Gaultier crossing the line between beauty and the absurd that I was not surprised by his collection. The metallic embroidery and bell-shaped skirts were aesthetically pleasing, while the dramatic hoods and interplay of black sheer fabric summoned up visions of seductive femme fatales. The bearded lady just served to enhance the experience. You never know what kind of girl you’ll find under a dark veil.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
Baroque and Le Corbusier
I’m always prepared to expect the unexpected from Karl Lagerfeld. "It’s as if Baroque and Le Corbusier had met" explained the designer backstage a few moments before the Chanel show started. "I was fascinated" adds Lagerfeld, "by the possible coexistence of the essential works by Le Corbusier, opposed to the eccentricity and richness of the 18th century buildings." His collection for Chanel is an elegant study in structure of very square silhouettes, pointed shoulders and flats. The eye pleasingly follows the changing textures and metallic scrollwork of the fabrics, revealing the graceful feminine curves hiding beneath the stiff shapes.
Chanel
Chanel
A Glamorous Affair
Giorgio Armani’s black, red and white dresses (the predominant color scheme everywhere this season) were a fabulous reminder of the days when intercontinental travel or meeting friends even just for a coffee were still glamorous affairs. I especially love the red gloves. Of course the gowns in his collection, like the red and black wedding dresses, draw us into more daring territory.
Memorable Moments
Other highlights included Versace’s “deconstructed couture” or what I actually thought of as “dominatrix at the ball”.
Versace
Let’s also take a moment to enjoy Ralph & Russo, Giambattista Valli and Lan Yu’s visions of totally impractical and absolutely delightful ruffled grandeur.
Valentino’s sleek and totally wearable Daughter of the Nile-inspired gowns.
Valentino
And my favourite collection: Missoni’s colourful textile creations, and their creative use of polka dots, patchwork satins, silks and floral prints. The Van Gogh Iris dress is one I wouldn’t hesitate to wear myself, though I think I’ll leave the jewelled mask at home!
Missoni
For more, check out Haute Couture Week’s facebook page.
All Images Courtesy Of Haute Couture Week.
Yasmin Spiegel
Author
Yasmin Spiegel is a New York-based writer and information professional. She is passionate about books, textiles, good design, and expert craftsmanship. She reserves free time for her own creative work, ballroom dancing and hiking upstate. Future plans include fashion design and any excuse for worl...